Precision Battle: Elegoo Mars 4 vs. Anycubic Photon Mono 2 for Miniature 3D Printing

Resin printing changed miniature fabrication. The surface quality and detail you get from even a cheap mono LCD machine is something FDM can’t touch. If you’re shopping sub-$300 for your first resin printer or an upgrade, two machines keep coming up: the Elegoo Mars 4 and the Anycubic Photon Mono 2. Here’s how they actually compare.

Core Technology and Print Resolution

Both printers use monochrome LCD (mono LCD) screens. That matters because mono LCDs pass more UV light than older RGB panels, so cure times are shorter and the screens last far longer. We’re talking thousands of hours versus a few hundred with older tech.

The detail gap between these two comes down to XY resolution. The Elegoo Mars 4 runs a 9K (8520×4320 pixel) mono LCD on a 6.7-inch screen, giving you 18 microns (µm) per pixel. The Anycubic Photon Mono 2 uses a 4K (4096×2560 pixel) mono LCD on a 6.6-inch screen at 34 µm per pixel.

Those numbers translate directly to print fidelity. At 18µm, the Mars 4 can hold sharper edges, finer engraving, and more readable facial detail on a 28mm figure. The Photon Mono 2 at 34µm is still excellent and beats anything FDM produces, but the Mars 4 has a real edge for competitive display painting or high-fidelity masters.

Beginner Note: XY resolution works like screen pixel density. Smaller µm = sharper image. For miniatures, that difference shows up in hair strands, belt buckles, and fine filigree. Below about 25µm you’re in territory where the limiting factor becomes your resin and your support strategy, not the printer.

Build Volume and Practical Workflow

The Elegoo Mars 4 build volume is 153.36 x 77.76 x 175 mm. The Anycubic Photon Mono 2 comes in at 143 x 89.6 x 165 mm. The Mars 4 is longer and taller; the Photon Mono 2 is a bit wider on one axis. For batch-printing 28mm infantry or fitting a larger display bust, the Mars 4’s extra height is more useful than the Mono 2’s extra width.

Slicing is handled by Chitubox Basic on the Elegoo side and Anycubic Photon Workshop on the Anycubic side. Both are stable and reasonably well-featured for orienting models and generating supports. If you’re already comfortable with one, you won’t need long to get productive in the other. The file formats differ (.cbddlp vs .pm3m), so make sure you’re slicing for the right machine.

Maker Tip: Orienting models to reduce overall print height cuts print time and support count. For small figures, nest several on the plate at once. You can usually fit four to six 28mm infantry with room to spare on either of these printers.

Print Speed, Exposure, and Resin Compatibility

Both machines cure a layer in roughly 2-3 seconds at standard 50µm layer height, which is fast by any measure. Drop to 25µm for ultra-fine detail and print time roughly doubles, since each layer still needs that exposure window and you’re adding more layers per millimeter of height.

Lift and retract speeds matter more than most beginners expect. Faster lift gets your print done sooner, but pull the plate too aggressively and you’ll peel prints off supports or crack thin features. Start conservative and speed up once you have a working profile.

Recommended Exposure Settings (General starting points, may vary by resin):
* Layer Height: 0.05 mm (50 µm)
* Bottom Exposure Time: 25-35 seconds (for the first 4-6 layers)
* Normal Exposure Time: 2.0-3.0 seconds
* Lift Distance: 6-8 mm
* Lift Speed: 60-80 mm/min
* Retract Speed: 150-200 mm/min

Both printers accept any 405nm UV-curing photopolymer resin. Standard resins like Elegoo Standard or Anycubic Standard are the right starting point: good detail, reasonable cure times, affordable. For parts that need to survive handling, ABS-like resins such as Siraya Tech Fast or Elegoo ABS-like hold up much better. Water-washable resins like Anycubic Water-Washable simplify cleanup by letting you skip IPA, but they tend to be more brittle and aren’t my first choice for display pieces.

Beginner Note: Resin behaves differently depending on brand, color, and ambient temperature. Always check the manufacturer’s recommended settings, then run a calibration test like the XP2 Validation Matrix or Cones of Calibration before committing to a long print. Twenty minutes of calibration saves hours of failed prints.

User Experience, Features, and Post-Processing Considerations

Setup on both machines is straightforward. Touchscreen interfaces, four-point build plate leveling, and solid FEP vats are standard on both. Neither will give you grief during initial setup if you follow the manual. The Mars 4’s leveling has been reliable in my experience; the Photon Mono 2’s system is equally solid.

Where a lot of new resin printers get tripped up is post-processing. The print leaving the machine is not done. It needs a wash to remove uncured liquid resin, then a UV cure to fully harden. Skip either step and you get tacky, fragile parts.

Essential Post-Processing BOM:
* Wash & Cure Station: (e.g., Elegoo Mercury Plus 2.0, Anycubic Wash & Cure 2.0) – highly recommended for efficiency and consistency.
* Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): 90%+ concentration for standard resins.
* Nitrile Gloves: Essential for handling uncured resin and IPA.
* Safety Glasses: To protect eyes from splashes.
* Respirator: Activated carbon filter for organic vapors (e.g., 3M 6001 cartridges) is crucial for ventilation.
* Paper Towels/Microfiber Cloths: For wiping down tools and surfaces.
* UV Protection: For curing (a dedicated station or DIY UV lamp).

Ventilation is non-negotiable when working with resin. Fumes from liquid resin and IPA are irritating and can cause sensitization with repeated exposure. Run these machines in a ventilated space. An exhaust fan to the outside is ideal. A grow tent with an inline duct fan and carbon filter works well as a negative-pressure enclosure if you’re in a shared space.

Maker Tip: Buy the wash and cure station at the same time as the printer. Washing by hand in a jar of IPA works, but a dedicated station is faster, safer, and gives more consistent results. You’ll use it every single print session.

Cost, Value Proposition, and Target User

Both printers typically land between $180-$250. The price difference between them is usually small enough that it shouldn’t be your deciding factor. Running costs matter more over time: resin runs $25-$50 per 1kg bottle (Elegoo Standard Grey, Anycubic Standard Grey, Siraya Tech Fast Grey are all solid options). You’ll also go through IPA and FEP film replacements regularly, and eventually want a wash and cure station if you don’t buy one upfront.

Print Cost Breakdown (Estimate for a 28mm miniature):
* Resin Volume: ~5-15 ml (0.005-0.015 kg)
* Resin Cost: ~$0.15 – $0.75 per miniature (assuming $30/kg resin)
* Print Time: ~1-3 hours (depending on layer height and model complexity)

If you’re painting competition pieces, making jewelry masters, or producing anything where sub-20µm detail actually shows up under scrutiny, get the Mars 4. Its 18µm XY resolution is among the best at this price point and the 9K screen gives you real headroom. For general miniature printing, batch production, or prototyping functional parts, the Photon Mono 2 at 34µm handles everything most people need at a price that’s hard to argue with.

Recommended STL Sources for Miniatures:
* MyMiniFactory: Huge repository of free and paid models, often with community reviews.
* Cults3D: Another excellent platform for diverse 3D models.
* Patreon Artists: Many talented sculptors offer monthly releases of exclusive miniatures (e.g., Lord of the Print, Archon Studios, Artisan Guild) for a subscription fee.

Pick based on what you’re printing. If maximum resolution matters, the Mars 4 is the clear choice and the price premium is minimal. If you want a capable, reliable printer without overthinking it, the Photon Mono 2 delivers. Both are solid machines and either one will produce miniatures that look significantly better than anything you’d get from FDM.